by Ben Reade.
The story goes that Nero’s palace was filled with doves that flew with perfumed wings: the collection and application of aromas continues to be a very important feature of the modern kitchen, though at NFL there has been attempt to match Nero’s style and more modern techniques like fans, or perfumed cushions under plates are cleaner and more efficient (if less charismatic). Mention has been made that flavour molecules are volatile, or aromatic molecules.
In relation to food this is relevant as they can become airborne at the temperature of the mouth (above 33°C) to then pass via the throat in ‘retro-nasal’ sensing to then be perceived by the brain as a part of flavour. At NFL, to help with and the creative processes, a list has been compiled of plants that have been embraced by New Nordic Cuisine, especially for their distinctive aroma. This list was assembled through brainstorming with a number of chefs with lengthy experience in the Nordic cuisine, especially at Noma.
The list is a useful guide to some of the more particular plants used in the Nordic Cuisine, but it is by no means comprehensive and many other plants available in the area should be investigated (ethnobotanical research on local traditional communities is recommended to gain further knowledge of available edible plants, and discovery of plants which may be new to NNC). The parts of the plant used and their scientific names have been given in order to avoid confusion.
Many of the plants on our list have strong effects on microbial populations; further research and literature review of these and other plants should be undertaken in order to understand how use of these plants could influence microbial action. This is particularly useful to the chef wishing to embark on a series of fermentation experiments. Not all of the ingredients can be produced in Denmark, but many have become entangled with local culinary tradition with time and so have been included. To a certain extent it can be said that one way to define a culture is by what it excludes: New Nordic Cuisine has chosen to exclude black pepper form the list of possible ingredients, which may lead chefs to use a larger variety of alternative interesting spices.
Incomplete list of Nordic aromatics
This list is given in order of vernacular English name to allow easy reference by cooks. The list is, by definition incomplete, but perhaps gives an idea of some of the commonly used ingredients that are not typical to other geographical locations. Some species listed are lichens (denoted by #), or fungi (denoted by *), and so not plants, however, the author does not feel that should be a problem. Staple agricultural products such as grains, common fruits and legumes are not included.
Common Name
Latin Name
Parts Used
Allspice
Pimenta dioica
(L.) Merr.
Fruits
Angelica
Angelica
L.
Fruits
Anise
Pimpinella anisum
L
.
Fruits
Beechnuts
Fagus sylvatica
L.
Seeds
Birch
Betula
L.
Sap
Black mustard
Brassica nigra
L.
Seeds & Leaves
* Black trumpet
Craterellus cornucopioides
(L.) Pers.
Arial Parts
Blackcurrant
Ribes nigrum
L.
Fruits & Leaves
Bladderwrack
Fucus vesiculosus
L.
Leaves
Blueberries
Vaccinium cyanococcus
Rydb.
Fruits
Caraway
Carum carvi
L.
Seeds
* Cep
Boletus edulis
Bull. (1782)
Arial Parts
Chervil
Anthriscus cerefolium
(L.) Hoffm.
Arial Parts
Chestnut
Castanea sativa
L.
Seed Kernels
Chickweed
Stellaria media
(L.) Vill
Arial Parts
Cloudberries
Rubus chamaemorus
L.
Fruits
Coriander
Coriandrum sativum
L.
Seeds
Cowberry
Vaccinium vitus-idaea
L.
Fruit
Crabapple
Malus sylvestris
(L.) Mill.
Fruit
Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
L.
Fruits
Dandelion
Taraxacum officinale
F. H. Wigg
and
T. erythrospermum
Andrz. ex Besser
Leaves
Dill herb
Anethum graveolens
L.
Arial Parts & Seeds
Dulse
Palmaria palmata
(L.) Kuntze
Fronds
Elderflower
Sambucus nigra
L.
Flowers & Fruits
Fennel
Foeniculum vulgare
L
.
Arial Parts & Fruits
Garlic
Allium sativum
L.
Bulb
Gooseberry
Ribes uva-crispa
L.
Fruit
Green juniper
Juniperus chinensis
L.
Cones
Greenland Labrador tea
Rhododendron groenlandicum
(Oeder) Kron & Judd
Leaves
Ground-elder
Aegopodium podagraria
L.
Young leaves
Hay
Mixed species, mostly grasses
Arial Parts
Hazelnuts
Corylus avellana
L.
Nuts & husks
Heather
Hedera
L.
Arial parts
Hops
Humulus lupulus
L.
Flowers
# Iceland moss
Cetraria islandica
(L.) Arch.
Arial Parts
Juniper
Juniperus communis
L.
Wood & Cones
Kelp
Laminariales
Migula, 1909
Leaves
Lemon thyme
Lemon citriodorus L.
Leaves & flowers
Lemon verbena
Aloysia citrodora
Palàu
Leaves
Liquorice
Glycyrrhiza glabra
L.
Root
Lovage
Levisticum officinale
W. D. J. Koch
Leaves, Stems & Roots
*Morel
Morchella esculenta
(L.) Pers. (1801)
Arial Parts
Nasturtium
Tropaeolum majus
L. 1753
Leaves, Flowers & Seeds
Nutmeg
Myristica fragrans
Gronov.
Seeds
Pine
Pinus sylvestris
L.
Fresh Growth & Leaves
Quince
Cydonia oblonga
Mill.
Fruit
Ramsons
Allium ursinum
L.
Arial Parts & Bulb
# Reindeer moss
Cladonia rangiferina
(L.) Weber ex F.H. Wigg. (1780)
Arial Parts
Rhubarb
Rheum rhabarbarum
L.
Stems
Rowan berries
Fruits & Shoots
Samphire
Salicornia europaea
L.
Arial Parts
Sea lettuce
Ulva lactuca
L.
Leaves
Sea buckthorn
Hippophae
L.
Fruits
Sloe
Prunus spinosa
L.
Berries
Sorrel
Rumex acetosa
L.
Leaves
Spruce
Picea
Mill.
Arial parts
Stone crop
Sedum
L.
Sugar kelp
Laminaria saccharina
(L.) Lamouroux
Leaves
* Summer truffle
Tuber aestivum
Vittad. 1831
Fruiting body
Tarragon
Artemisia dracunculus
L.
Arial Parts
Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
L.
Leaves & Flowers
Walnuts
Juglans regia
L.
Kernels
Watercress
Nasturtium officinale
L.
Arial Parts
White mustard
Brassica juncea
(L.) Czern.
Seeds & Leaves
Wild bog mirtyl
Myrica gale
L.
Arial parts
Willow
Salix
L.
Leaves & Flowers
Woodruff
Galium odoratum
(L.) Scop.
Arial parts
Yarrow
Achillea millefolium
L.
Arial parts
You can expect us to add to this list with time, and we’d appreciate your additions too! Please be in contact if you know a plant, especially a wild one used in Nordic cuisine which is not on this list but should be, there are many.
Here is a wonderful application of a variety of wild aromatics, prepared by Carol Choi of the Noma pastry section for a ‘Saturday night project’ (check out @ReneRedzepiNoma #saturdaynightprojects for more great ideas from the staff and stagiers). The dish, a delightfully light composition of chestnuts, woodruff, cowberry, pickled pine shoots and spruce granita really captured the imagination of all those who were lucky enough to taste it – an exemplary demonstration of how aromatic plants can be used to create harmonious, delicate and delicious dishes.
About the author
My Name is Ben Reade, I’m a chef from Edinburgh, Scotland, and for the past 3.5 years I have been studying at The University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. For my final thesis, I came to Nordic Food Lab to research many subjects where my varied interests inerlaced with those of the Lab. The research arose out of time spent at the Nordic Food Lab between 29 September and 22 December 2011. The aim is to describe NFL’s current research to both chefs and non-specialized readers, explaining and coding the creative and scientific methodologies employed during the research at NFL, exploring their application in food experimentation and innovation. Over the next month or so I will be breaking down this thesis into manageable blog-style chunks, this is chunk 2 of around 25 I hope you find it interesting. If you want to ask me any questions directly, I’m contactable on Twitter @benreade. In general